Ohi’a lehua flower with snow on Mauna Kea in background. Credit: Hawai’i Visitors Bureau
Welcome to the Big Island!
At over 4,000 square miles in area, you can guess how our island got its nickname. And the best way to explore? Circumventing it by car. The Big Island of Hawaii is unlike any other place on Earth. Snow-capped mountains meet black sand beaches. Rainforests transition into lava deserts. Ancient Hawaiian culture pulses beneath the surface of every landscape.
If you’re short on time, a three day Big Island Road Trip starting in Kona offers the perfect chance to explore this diverse island. Born and raised on the Big Island, I’ve been all over and love to write about it. No bright lights, crowds, or traffic. Even a short three days will help you to slow down and unwind. I can guarantee that you’ll want to stay longer.
There’s parts of the island that this itinerary won’t cover. The Big Island is just too big. The Puna and Kohala districts aren’t included as isn’t time to fully explore in three days, but it’ll give you at least two great reasons to return.
What Makes the Big Island Special
The Big Island of Hawaii is known as the Land of Fire and Ice. Fresh lava gushes from Kilauea Volcano when it erupts. Snow crowns Mauna Kea during the cooler months of December to February.
On the Big Island, we have 8 of the 13 defined climate zones, and beaches with white, black or green sand.
For history fans, this is the island where British explorer Captain Cook landed in 1778 revealing the Hawaiian Islands to the world. Soon after that, the natives killed him. The Captain Cook monument is a landmark at Kealakekua Bay in Kona.
It’s the home of King Kamehameha I who was born and died on the island.
This statue of Kamehameha stands in Hilo. Photo credit: HawaiianScribe
The Big Island is jam-packed full of things to do. Ocean sports, hiking, the peace of lush rainforests, historical sites, cultural events, or quiet browsing in antique stores and art galleries. Whatever you decide, you won’t be far from interesting eateries and food stops along the way.
Starting Off in Kona
There is an airport in Kona and in Hilo. I recommend flying into Kona International Airport as more airlines service the town which means better odds of landing early in the day to settle in and get started.
On this road trip, you’ll spend one night in Volcano, a night in Hilo, and a choose your own adventure on the final night in Waimea or back in Kona before flying out.
Day 1: Kona to Volcano via South Kona and the Southern Coast
Head south through the Ka‘ū District to Volcano. You’ll be driving about 100 miles to Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park. You won’t enter the park today, but I would suggest staying in the Volcano area overnight.
Morning: Kona Coffee Country & Puʻuhonua o Hōnaunau
Fresh Kona coffee beans.
Start your day in Kona with a hot cup of island-grown coffee. Kona is famous for its rich, volcanic-soil-grown beans, so grab breakfast and a brew and head to Greenwell Farms. This well-known coffee farm offers hour-long tours and free java beginning at 9 a.m. daily with no reservations required. You’ll find out how the beans get from shrub to cup—well worth your time, especially for coffee lovers.
Pu‘uhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park: Located about 22 miles south of Kailua Kona, the National Park Service operates this 180 acre park. It was once home to ancient Hawaiian royalty before the arrival of westerners. It also housed a place of refuge for lawbreakers who were sentenced to death if they did not reach the sanctuary before being caught. Walk among carved wooden ki‘i (statues), stone platforms, and reconstructed hale (thatched huts), with the sound of waves crashing on the lava rock shores. You can easily spend a couple of hours on a self-guided tour and observing cultural demonstrations. It’s open daily from 8:30 a.m.- 4:30 p.m.
Hawaiian ki’i or statues of ancient gods. Puuhonua o Honaunau.
Midday: South Point (Optional Detour on Your Big Island Road Trip)
South Point: This is the halfway point between Kailua Kona and Volcano. South Point is the southernmost location in the United States and some historians think this was the first landing spot for ancient navigators via canoe, which is well worth a stop just to say you’ve been there. While the drive itself is unremarkable, it’s about 12 miles off the main highway and provides a panoramic view of the Pacific Ocean. It’s desolate and windy, and you’ll pass a few farms, cattle, horses, and maybe a food truck or fruit stand if you’re lucky. Once back on the main road, you’ll be in the Ka‘ū District.
Sheer cliffs at South Point. Photo credit: HawaiianScribe
Afternoon: Punalu‘u and Volcano Winery
Punalu‘u Bake Shop is a great place for a leisurely pit stop and lunch and to snag some souvenirs. The bakery is excellent – get some malasadas (Portuguese buns), their famous sweet bread, and favorites like eclairs, turnovers and cheesecake. Order a plate lunch and eat outside in the tropical garden. They’re open daily from 8:30 a.m. – 5 p.m.
Punalu‘u Black Sand Beach – A highlight of any Big Island visit, the black sand beach is a sea turtle sanctuary so there are usually several turtles lazing on the sand. They’re protected, so keep your distance, but feel free to marvel at their presence—it’s one of the most iconic sights on the island. If it’s not too late in the day, check out the gift shop run by locals right on the beach. The black sand gets really hot and windy in case you were wondering why people aren’t laying out on the sand.
Sea turtles come up onto the black sand at Punalu’u. Photo credit: HawaiianScribe
Volcano Winery – Established in 1986, the winery harnesses the unique volcanic soil to cultivate Symphony grape vines, demonstrating that even in the most unexpected terrains, viticulture can thrive. For a mid-day pick-me-up, they offer tastings from 12-5:30 p.m daily or guided tours at 12:15 p.m. (advanced reservations required). There is also a one-hour tour of their tea fields where their White and Black tea offerings are featured.
Evening: Volcano Village and Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park
Although you probably didn’t notice, your Big Island road trip drive has taken you up quite the elevation gain – 4,000 feet above sea level. As sunset approaches, Volcano Village will come into view, a misty, fern-filled enclave on the edge of Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. Evenings are often cool and rainy, but if you’re lucky to be there on a clear night, look up. The stars are amazing.
If you still have energy, the park after dark is a sight to behold. Open 24/7, you won’t find rangers and need to be prepared with flashlights, emergency supplies and clothing layers. If there’s volcanic activity reported (check NPS conditions in advance), head to the Halemaʻumaʻu Crater overlook and obey all hazard signs. Seeing molten lava glowing against the night sky is an unforgettable experience.
Note: The entrance fee per vehicle is $30, and if you enter the park at night, you’ll have to pay again in the morning unless you have a national parks pass.
An evening with Pele. Photo by Michael Brandt.
Where to Stay Near Hawaii Volcanoes National Park:
- Hawaii Volcanoes National Park has a campground where you can pitch a tent, but there are also cabins that sleep 1-4 people and are always in demand.
- Hawaii Volcano House – A historic hotel with 33 guest rooms situated near the edge of Kilauea Crater. An onsite restaurants offer upscale dining.
- Volcano Village Lodge – Is a bed and breakfast two miles from the park that’s popular with travelers.
- Kilauea Lodge – Is a well-known vintage lodge with an onsite restaurant located in Volcano Village right outside the National Park.
Where to Eat Near Hawaii Volcanoes National Park:
There aren’t many choices in Volcano Village but your best bets are…
- Thai Thai Bistro & Bar – Delicious Thai food. Their special curry is outstanding. Quality of service can sometimes vary.
- Lava Rock Cafe – Their menu has a mix of American and Big Island local-style food with plate lunches and dinners, sandwiches, burgers, pasta, wine and beer.
Day 2: Volcano to Hilo
Morning: Explore Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park
Wake up early and make the most of your time in this UNESCO World Heritage Site. You can easily spend an entire day in the park with hikes like the Kilauea Iki Hike, where you’ll walk across a once-molten lava lake. Drive the famed Chain of Craters Road all the way to the ocean, a 19-mile scenic route passing old lava flows and scenic lookouts. If you’re into geology or just awestruck by Earth’s raw power, this park delivers with its active volcanoes.
Midday: Drive to Hilo
Drive the 30 miles from Volcano to Hilo. Hilo feels different than Kona—cooler, greener, more laid-back.
Sunset over historic downtown Hilo. Photo by Jay Takaaze.
Things to do in Hilo:
- Rainbow Falls – If there’s been recent heavy rains, the falls will be thundering. Otherwise, it’s pretty mild and picturesque.
- Walk Around Historic Downtown Hilo – Charming storefronts, colorful murals, and a laid-back vibe transport you to old Hawaiʻi with a dash of hipster flair.
- Stroll Liliuokalani Gardens and walk over the bridge to Coconut Island – The 360-degree view of Hilo Bay from Coconut Island is amazing.
Where to Stay in Hilo:
- SCP Hilo Hotel: I highly recommend this family-run hotel with a retro feel. It’s great to unwind and Coconut Grill, their onsite restaurant, is convenient with a family-friendly menu.
- Dolphin Bay Hotel: Close to Downtown Hilo, it’s consistently rated the Nicest Small Hotel in Hilo.
- Hilo Honu Inn Bed and Breakfast: Quaint and right up the hill from Downtown Hilo.
Where to Eat:
- Ponds Hilo: Overlooking Ice Pond, directly across from SCP Hilo Hotel. Ask to sit by the window.
- Seaside Restaurant & Aqua Farm: Fresh seafood plucked straight out of the ponds surrounding the restaurant.
- Moon and Turtle: Located in Downtown Hilo, it’s an innovative Asian-fusion restaurant with a menu that changes often to accommodate locally sourced foods. Check their Facebook page for the daily menu.
Day 3: – Hilo to Waimea along the Hamakua Coast. (heading back toward Kona)
This itinerary has you eating dinner in Waimea, whether or not you decide to stay overnight there. Allow for a 1-hour drive from Waimea to Kona International Airport if you leave the next morning.
Morning:
Paul’s Place: Located in Downtown Hilo, this would be a great morning send-off. Paul’s is a tiny niche restaurant with just three tables. The Belgian waffles are spectacular. Reserve way in advance and arrive on time. They’re open daily from 7:30 a.m.- 2 p.m.
Hawai‘i Tropical Botanical Garden: For gorgeous views of the Onomea coastline, this tropical rainforest garden has over 2,500 species of plants. They’re open daily 9 a.m.-5 p.m.
Local red chenille plant
Triple Tier Umauma Falls: Go on a self-guided tour of the waterfalls and tropical garden for a nominal fee. They also offer horseback riding, ziplining, ATVs, ebike rentals, and kayaking.
Afternoon:
You should pass the small plantation town of Honoka‘a in the early afternoon. There’s not much to see when your time is limited, but Tex Drive In is on the main highway. They have plate lunches, a nice little rest stop, and are known for an assortment of malasadas (Portuguese buns) in unique flavors. They’re open 6 a.m. -6 p.m.
Half an hour past Tex, you’ll reach Waimea. It’s Paniolo (Cowboy) Country with Parker Ranch taking up most of the pastureland and rolling hills. They offer self-guided tours of the two historic family homes to see the heirlooms and artwork. Reservations are required with tours available at 10, 11, and 1.
Where to Eat on a Big Island Road Trip
Where to Eat in Waimea:
Plan to have dinner in Waimea. For a backcountry town with rolling green hills, their food is amazing.
- Fish and the Hog: A market cafe offering fresh island fish, BBQ, sandwiches and salads. They’re family-friendly and do get crowded. Open 11:30 a.m. – 8:30 p.m.
- Merriman’s: Upscale and pricey, but Chef Peter Merriman is known for his excellent cuisine that uses the freshest local ingredients. Reservations are required for dinners from 5 – 8:30 p.m.
- For a festive finale on the Big Island, try the Paniolo Sunset BBQ Dinner. The buffet dinner includes prime rib, BBQ chicken, sides, desserts, and non-alcoholic drinks with festive country music, line dancing, roping, and more Hawaiian-style fun. Reservations are required. The show is on Wednesday nights only from 5:30-8:30 p.m. at Kahua Ranch. . You’ll love the Hawaiian paniolo culture of island cowboys.
Where to Stay in Waimea:
- Kamuela Inn: A boutique hotel with just 30 rooms and upcountry hospitality including complimentary continental breakfast.
Returning to Kona
Whether you decide to stay overnight in Waimea or return to Kona, you’ve now seen a huge chunk of the Big Island and its varied and vibrant soul—but there’s so much more. You’ve probably just seen enough to fall in love with the Big Island—and maybe start planning your return trip and your next adventure.
Big Island Road Trip Travel Tips:
- Your rental car: A standard vehicle will do for most of the trip, but if you plan to go to the summit of Mauna Kea, you’ll need a 4WD. Be sure to test the windshield wipers before leaving the lot because tropical showers are part of Big Island life.
- Check the weather and road closures: Conditions can vary dramatically from location to location on the Big Island, so stay informed, especially if you’re heading into high elevation or remote areas.
- Respect the land and culture: Many of the sites you’re visiting are sacred to Native Hawaiians. Tread lightly and be respectful.
- Pack layers: From the sunny Kona coast to the chilly Volcano nights, you’ll experience a range of temperatures including a sweater for evenings.
- Bring binoculars and an umbrella. You’ll have lots of opportunity to use them on your Big Island road trip.
- Pack hiking boots. The trails can get muddy and hiking over lava is rough on tennis shoes.
The Big Island is vast, raw, and endlessly fascinating. Even in just a couple of days, it leaves an impression that’s hard to shake. So hit the road, keep your eyes wide, and let the Big Island work its magic.
If You Have Extra Time: Waipiʻo Valley Lookout or Mauna Kea
Waipi’o Valley Lookout. Photo credit: HawaiianScribe
Waipiʻo Valley Lookout
Continue driving north on the Hāmākua Coast and turn into the little town of Honoka‘a. It’s a nine-mile drive from the main highway to the Waipiʻo Valley Lookout for one of the most jaw-dropping vistas on the island. The valley is sacred, dramatic, and lush. Access is currently restricted to valley residents, tour operators, and Native Hawaiians practicing traditional cultural rights.
Mauna Kea Visitors Center at 9,200 ft elevation. Photo Credit: State of Hawai’i
Summit of Mauna Kea
If the skies are clear and you’re craving a true high point—literally—drive up 9,200 feet to the Mauna Kea Visitor Information Station. The summit (13,803 feet) requires a 4WD vehicle, and conditions change fast, but even if you don’t go all the way up, stargazing from the visitor center is phenomenal.