Hālawa Beach Park Molokai (Shutterstock)
With a population of just over 7,000 — more than 60% of whom are Native Hawaiian — Moloka‘i feels more like a close-knit community than an island. Many residents trace their lineage back to ancient times and carry with them a deep kuleana (responsibility) to protect the land, ocean, and culture that sustains them.
Because of its smaller population and proximity, Moloka‘i is considered part of Maui County. But make no mistake — Moloka‘i has a heartbeat and identity all its own.
Moloka‘i’s deep-rooted sense of stewardship is sometimes mistaken for unfriendliness, but locals see it as a necessary act of protection. From turning away large cruise ships to opposing GMOs to limiting tourism, the community consistently prioritizes what they believe is right — a reflection of their enduring commitment to aloha ‘āina.
Some will say this is unfriendly. But those who know and love Moloka‘i will say that this is protecting a very important family member: The island itself. As one local auntie once told me, “We don’t turn people away. We just ask them to come with respect.”
No Crowds on this Island
Flying into Moloka‘i is part of the adventure. The only way to get there is via a small propeller plane from Honolulu or Maui. Within minutes of takeoff, the view from your window will leave you speechless. Lush, green hills roll into deep valleys. Patches of vivid red earth stand starkly against the landscape.
That red dirt? It’s not just eye-catching. It comes from oxidized volcanic minerals and has a reputation for leaving its mark — literally. If you’re planning to hike or explore off the beaten path, don’t wear your favorite shoes, or you’ll be taking home a rusty red souvenir.
The first thing you’ll notice when disembarking is how empty and uncrowded the airport is. Eerie or peaceful? You decide.
@IslandWanderer: “Moloka‘i changed the way I travel. No crowds, no rush — just nature, culture, and soul. #RealHawaii #MolokaiMagic”
Molokai Sunset (Shutterstock)
You’re on Molokai. Relax.
Take a deep breath. If you’re in a rush or looking for nightlife, you’re on the wrong island. But if you’re on Moloka‘i to connect with nature, culture, and quiet moments, you’re exactly where you need to be. This is the Friendly Isle — and it lives up to its name in its own, unhurried way.
Getting around takes a bit of planning. With only a couple of rental car agencies, limited taxi options, and no public transportation, reserving a car ahead of time is essential.
You won’t find a single traffic light here. The fastest posted speed limit is 45 miles per hour. And yes, it’s enforced. On this sparsely populated Hawaiian Island with little crime, the Moloka‘i police have plenty of time to clock the speed of rental cars.
The main town of Kaunakakai is a charming Hawaiian cowboy or paniolo town. A throwback to the days of a quieter and simpler Hawai’i with businesses like Friendly Market, Pascua General Store, and Kanemitsu Bakery, famous for its piping hot bread sold out their red back door late at night. Baked fresh from the oven, just follow your nose after sundown and you’ll find it.
Moloka‘i’s history is deeply tied to its paniolo (cowboy) heritage. At one time, Moloka‘i Ranch wasn’t just the island’s largest employer — it controlled nearly a third of the island’s land. Today, the ranch sits quiet. Out of operation for years, it remains on the market, and its future remains uncertain. For many locals, it represents both a proud chapter of the island’s past and a pivotal question for the future.
My First Visit to Moloka‘i
A few years ago, my husband and I went to Moloka‘i for the first time. We didn’t know anyone, but everyone we met was friendly and curious about where we “came from.”
We didn’t realize just how quiet the evenings would be — or how little there is to do at night. So when Saturday night rolled around, we decided to go to the local high school graduation. That’s right, we went to Moloka‘i High School’s graduation without knowing a soul.
We bought flower leis and balloons and immersed ourselves in the small-town celebration. We clapped; we cheered; we prayed that every student would grow up to be a successful adult. Then we looked for the student who had the least amount of leis and balloons, gave him our gifts, and congratulated him.
That was probably the most meaningful thing we’ve done on a weekend getaway. On an island untouched by mass tourism, those are the kinds of experiences that find you — if you let them.
Getting to Moloka‘i
Moloka‘i may feel like a world away, but getting there is surprisingly straightforward. Hawaiian Airlines offers multiple flights a day from Honolulu International Airport (HNL) on Oahu or Kahului Airport (OGG) on Maui.
Where to Stay on Moloka‘i
Hotel Molokai, in the main town of Kaunakakai, is the island’s only hotel. It provides comfortable rooms and suites, a restaurant, a bar, and a pool, all set against the backdrop of the island’s natural beauty.
For those seeking a more personalized experience, vacation rentals are an option. Sites like VRBO and Airbnb offer everything from cozy cottages to spacious houses. Popular areas to stay in include Kaunakakai, Wavecrest, and the west side near Kepuhi Beach.
Halawa Valley and Hipuapua Falls (Shutterstock)
Things to do in Molokai
Explore Halawa Valley
Halawa Valley, located on the eastern end of Molokaʻi, is steeped in history and natural splendor. The lush valley is home to the breathtaking Moaʻula and Hīpuapua Falls, accessible via guided hikes that not only lead you through tropical flora but also delve into the valley’s rich cultural significance. Engaging a local guide enhances your adventure by providing insights into the valley’s history, legends, and the traditional Hawaiian way of life.
Relax on Pāpōhaku Beach
On Molokaʻi’s west end lies Pāpōhaku Beach, one of Hawaiʻi’s largest white-sand beaches that stretches for over three miles. Despite its grandeur, it remains uncrowded, offering the perfect backdrop for solitude and reflection. The expansive shoreline is ideal for picnicking, beachcombing, and catching a stunning sunset over the Pacific Ocean.
Kalaupapa National Historical Park and Towering Sea Cliffs
Kalaupapa National Historical Park serves as a poignant reminder of a chapter in Hawaiʻi’s history where individuals with Hansen’s disease (leprosy) were exiled to the remote peninsula. Today, the park stands as a testament to their resilience and the dedication of caregivers like Saint Damien and Saint Marianne Cope.
Access is restricted to protect the privacy of the few remaining residents, and permits are required. For those who do get the chance to go, the isolated peninsula is stunningly beautiful with brilliant blue water and sheer cliffs that prevent anyone from escaping.
Travel Tip: Access to Kalaupapa requires a permit, and with tours currently suspended, their future remains uncertain. The only way to visit is by being sponsored by a resident. Kalaupapa Airport serves the residents of Kalaupapa Settlement and visitors wishing to tour Kalaupapa National Historic Park. A permit is required before making air reservations.
Snorkel at Murphy’s Beach
Murphy’s Beach — also known as Kumimi Beach — is a gem on Moloka‘i’s east end, beloved for its crystal-clear, calm waters. It’s one of the island’s best snorkeling spots, with colorful coral gardens and vibrant marine life just a short swim from shore. Like most beaches on Moloka‘i, it’s wonderfully uncrowded. For the best conditions, visit early in the morning when the water is at its most serene.
Discover the Kamakou Preserve
Managed by The Nature Conservancy, the Kamakou Preserve encompasses over 2,700 acres of rainforest, and is home to numerous rare and endangered plant and bird species. One of the best ways to see it is on the Pēpēʻōpae Bog Trail, a boardwalk trail that traverses the unique ecosystem.
Kamakou Preserve is one of Moloka‘i’s most remote and untouched treasures — but getting there is not for the faint of heart. The road is rugged, there’s no cell service or facilities, and weather conditions can change in an instant. While the preserve is technically open to the public, access is challenging, and private tours aren’t available.
The Nature Conservancy occasionally offers guided hikes from March to October, depending on weather and staffing. If you’re considering a visit, reach out first by calling (808) 954-6581 or emailing hike_molokai@tnc.org to see what options are available.
Send a Coconut from Post-A-Nut
Did you know you can mail a coconut without putting it in a box? The nut IS the box. At the Hoolehua Post Office, visitors can partake in the quirky tradition of sending a personalized coconut, known as “Post-A-Nut,” to friends or family anywhere in the world. This unique and free service (excluding postage fees which cost $12-$20 per coconut) allows you to decorate a coconut and mail it as a memorable and novel souvenir.
Fun Fact: The program sends more than 3,000 coconuts a year, including about 700 to foreign countries. Australia and New Zealand have strict regulations, so unfortunately you can’t send one down under.
Explore Ancient Fishponds
Moloka‘i’s southern coast is home to a several ancient fishponds — sophisticated aquaculture systems that once sustained entire communities. Built with precision and deep ecological knowledge, these stone-walled enclosures are a powerful reminder of how early Hawaiians lived in harmony with the ocean.
Keawanui Fishpond, operated by the nonprofit Hui o Kuapā, is the largest fully enclosed and functioning fishpond in the Islands. Their mission goes beyond preservation — they’re working to restore food security in Hawai‘i by reviving traditional aquaculture practices. Guided tours may be available so if you’re looking for a unique cultural experience that also gives back to the land, this is it.
Hike to ʻIliʻiliʻōpae Heiau
ʻIliʻiliʻōpae Heiau is one of the largest and most significant ancient Hawaiian temples on Molokaʻi. Located inland from the eastern shore, it’s protected by the National Park Service and contains a massive stone platform believed to have been used for religious ceremonies. Visiting the heiau provides a deep connection to the island’s spiritual past and offers a serene environment for reflection.
Attend a Cultural Festival
Molokaʻi hosts various cultural events throughout the year that celebrate Hawaiian traditions, music, and dance. The annual Ka Hula Piko festival, for instance, honors the birth of hula, which according to legend, originated on Molokaʻi. Take a look at their calendar to see what’s coming up.
Visit the Molokaʻi Museum and Cultural Center
Tucked away in Kalaʻe, the Moloka‘i Museum and Cultural Center offers a fascinating look at the island’s rich history — from its earliest Native Hawaiian settlers to the plantation era that shaped daily life for generations. The museum is housed in the beautifully restored R.W. Meyer Sugar Mill, where visitors can explore original machinery and artifacts that tell the story of Moloka‘i’s agricultural roots.
Experience Local Cuisine at Kaunakakai Restaurants
Moloka‘i’s food scene may be small, but it’s full of heart — and flavor. Rooted in the island’s agricultural history and multicultural community, local eateries serve everything from traditional Hawaiian favorites to freshly caught seafood and inventive snacks.
One unforgettable local treat? Hot bread from Kanemitsu Bakery in Kaunakakai. Tucked in a narrow back alley affectionately known as “Hot Bread Lane,” this late-night ritual draws both locals and curious visitors. The warm, fluffy loaves are split open and stuffed with fillings like cinnamon sugar, strawberry jam, and gooey cream cheese. It’s sweet, satisfying, and purely Moloka‘i.
Restaurant Recommendations located in the (only) town of Kaunakakai:
- Paddler’s Restaurant and Bar – Fine dining in a casual setting. They have a full bar, live music, and dancing most nights.
- Hiro’s Ohana Grill – A casual oceanfront restaurant offering Hawaiian music, cocktails, and healthy choices. Reservations are recommended.
- A Taste of Moloka‘i – A popular food truck serving restaurant-quality poke bowls and salads.
Planning Your Hawaii Adventure
Moloka‘i isn’t for everyone — but that’s exactly what makes it special. Far from the crowds of O‘ahu and Maui, Moloka‘i’s attractions offer raw beauty, deep cultural roots, and a pace that challenges you to slow down. With fewer amenities, you’ll need to plan ahead, but in return, you’ll find unspoiled beaches, quiet valleys, and the rare chance to experience Hawai‘i as it once was.
