People mention things like “fish and poi” as traditional Hawaiian food.  Fish from the ocean, and a native dish from the taro root that we call “poi”. The traditional Hawaiian diet developed with a lot of hard work.

Once the ancient voyaging canoes landed on these barren volcanic islands centuries ago, the kanaka maoli (Native Hawaiians) discovered that the Hawaiian islands had a pure and pristine water supply fed by gushing waterfalls supplied by tropical rains.

The unfished oceans surrounding them were teeming with edible seafood. Villages depended on their mahi‘ai or farmers, and the lawai‘a or fishermen, to produce a steady supply of fish, shellfish, bananas, coconuts, taro for poi, yams, breadfruit, sweet potato, mountain apple and sugarcane. The kanaka maoli fed their growing population isolated from the rest of the world before European contact.

The Native Hawaiians’ traditional diet was a healthy mix of seafood and plants. Fast forward to the 21st century, and traditional Hawaiian food isn’t very easy to find anymore.

Popular “Hawaiian” cuisine is a combination of Hawaiian, Asian, European and American foods with an island twist. Here in Hawai’i we call this “Hawaiian” cuisine “local food” because it’s a mix from immigrant groups who came to Hawai’i.

Many visitors to Hawai‘i leave without ever tasting traditional Hawaiian food.

10 Traditional Hawaiian Foods You Must Try

  1. Laulau – Laulau is a traditional Hawaiian dish in which pork, fish, or chicken is wrapped in taro leaves and then steamed, baked, or cooked in an underground oven called an imu. Each laulau is folded into an outer wrapping of big green ti leaves, a local plant that protects the food and locks in its juices while it cooks. The dish has a tender, earthy flavor and is often part of a Hawaiian plate lunch alongside poi (a taro root paste) and lomi lomi salmon.
  2. A Bowl of Poi – Poi is a Hawaiian staple of mashed taro root mixed with water until it reaches a smooth, pudding-like consistency. It has a slightly sour taste due to natural fermentation and is often served alongside laulau, kalua pig and other traditional dishes.
  3. Kalua Pig – A slow-roasted pork dish traditionally cooked in an underground imu (oven) covered over with lava rocks and banana leaves. The pork is seasoned with Hawaiian sea salt and wrapped in banana or ti leaves, resulting in smoky kalua pork meat that is often served at luaus and other celebrations when it is falling-apart tender.
  4. Lomi Lomi Salmon – A Hawaiian side dish made with salted salmon, diced tomatoes, onions, and sometimes green onions. The ingredients are massaged (“lomi lomi” means “to massage” in Hawaiian) together to create a refreshing and flavorful dish that pairs well with poi or rice. Ancient Hawaiians salted salmon and other foods with the salt collected from dried ocean water on shoreline rocks.
  5. Poke – (pronounced poh-kay) is one of Hawai‘i’s well-known traditional dishes. This raw fish salad, traditionally made with ahi tuna (yellowfin) or aku (skipjack tuna), is marinated in soy sauce, sesame oil, and green onions. Other variations include octopus (tako poke), salmon, or even tofu for a vegetarian option. Modern twists incorporate spicy mayo, avocado, or seaweed for extra flavor.
  6. Opihi – a type of Hawaiian limpet (sea snail) served raw with a bit of shoyu (soy sauce) and sea salt. It is a rare delicacy harvested from rocky cliffs that rough ocean waves crash against.
  7. Squid Luau – a dish of squid stewed in a creamy mixture of taro leaves and coconut milk. The combination of ocean flavors with the richness of coconut makes it a unique and beloved dish.
  8. Breadfruit – Ancient Hawaiian settlers brought “canoe plants” that they stored on their canoes to regrow after landing. Breadfruit was part of this food storage. It grows on large trees, and the fruit has versatile uses. We eat breadfruit boiled or baked. It was a staple of the traditional Hawaiian diet. It tastes like a potato, and cooks up deliciously in coconut milk.
  9. Haupia – a coconut-based dessert, similar to a pudding or gelatin. Made from coconut milk, sugar, and thickened with cornstarch. This treat has a smooth, creamy texture. Cooks cut and serve this dessert in small squares at luaus and other gatherings. Modern recipes combine haupia with chocolate to make cakes and pies.
  10. Kulolo – This is a chewy Hawaiian dessert of taro, coconut, and sugar, with a texture similar to fudge and a flavor similar to caramel.

Read about the evolution of the Hawaiian lu‘au

Coconut dessert cut into squares on plate

Haupia, Photo by Onolicious Hawai’i

Poke 101: All About Raw Fish

Poke is so popular here in Hawai’i, that we can buy it at our grocery store delis. It’s the types of poke that make the difference to most locals, and how many choices a store offers.

Tamashiro Market in Honolulu has an incredible variety of Hawaiian seafood.  Housed in the ground floor of an aging pink building with a big red lobster hanging out front, Tamashiro’s is an iconic seafood market in the Kalihi-Palama neighborhood of Honolulu. Known for having the freshest raw fish in town, the Tamashiros were making poke long before it became popular. They have all of the local favorites: ‘ahi limu, spicy ‘ahi, ‘ahi shoyu, aku limu, ‘ahi onion, ‘ahi chili poke, and on and on.

Here’s a little Poke 101.  There are two kinds of tuna that are used to make poke. ‘Ahi is the Hawaiian word for yellowfin or big-eye tuna. Aku is skipjack tuna. The main difference between these tunas is the color and taste.

‘Ahi is a paler pink color and has a pretty neutral taste. It doesn’t taste ‘fishy’ if you know what I mean. Aku is a deep red color and has a more pronounced fish taste. Many locals prefer the aku poke because that’s why you’re buying poke – to eat raw fish. But my favorite is spicy ‘ahi poke  with fresh ahi in a mayonnaise and Sriracha sauce mix. Pretty decadent.

Now that you know what ‘ahi and aku mean, you’ll be able to understand the labels on the poke displays. ‘Ahi limu (with seaweed), ‘ahi shoyu (with soy sauce), ‘ahi onion (with onion), ‘ahi chili poke (with chili peppers or chili pepper water). Aku poke will come with all of the same combos.

Bowl of cubed raw fish

Ahi Poke, Photo by All Recipes

Where to Get the Best Hawaiian Food

Helena’s Hawaiian Food – Honolulu

It’s getting harder to find restaurants that specialize in traditional Hawaiian food. There are eateries where you will find laulau or a kalua pig lunch plate along with local dishes, but fewer where you can find Hawaiian food all on one plate with poi.

Helena’s Hawaiian Food has been serving Hawaiian food since 1946 when Helen Chock opened the doors to her humble eatery in Honolulu. For almost 80 years, this family-owned restaurant has been cooking up traditional Hawaiian cuisine.

In 2000, the James Beard Foundation awarded the Regional Classic Award to Helena’s Hawaiian Food. It’s still the simple eatery it was decades ago. Craig Katsuyoshi, Helen’s grandson, now runs the restaurant.

You can order ala carte items from the menu, or a meal with the whole works! You’ll find Helena’s Hawaiian Food at 1240 North School St.

Waiahole Poi Factory – Kane’ohe

For more than 50 years, the Hoe Family has owned The Waiahole Poi Factory in Kane‘ohe, O‘ahu . Although it’s not a poi factory anymore, they specialize in serving Hawaiian food and hand-pounded poi which is not easy to find.

To make hand-pounded poi, they harvest taro root, boil it until soft, remove the outer skin, and use a stone poi pounder to mash it, adding a little water periodically until it reaches a smooth consistency. A stone poi pounder can weigh between 3 pounds and 10 pounds or more. No wonder machines process most poi today!

If you’re heading to the North Shore of O’ahu by way of Kane‘ohe, you’ll pass this little century-old wooden building on the left-hand side of the street with a few tables and chairs out front. Don’t blink. Waiahole is very easy to miss.

                               

If you aren’t hungry enough to have a big plate of Hawaiian food, try their special Hawaiian dessert – Sweet Lady of Waiahole. It’s named after the iconic 1980’s Jawaiian song by Brudda Waltah.  The dessert is haupia ice cream on top of warm kulolo.

Kuhio Grille – Hilo

Kuhio Grille is the home of the One Pound Laulau at their restaurant in Hilo on the Big Island. Whoever said “bigger isn’t better” hasn’t been to Kuhio Grille. Their dessert tray is awesome too, with local favorites like macadamia nut cream pie, sweet potato haupia pie, and crunchy peanut butter mochi.

Kuhio Grille is at 80 Pauahi Street in Hilo.

 

Here’s some ideas for where to get good local food near you

Explore Kaua‘i cuisine with Taste of Kaua‘i

Keep Your Eyes Open for Roadside Food Vendors

Some of the best traditional Hawaiian food sells roadside in pop-up tents. High land costs in Hawai‘i and the costs of opening a restaurant prevent this food from getting to market. There are also food trucks that serve limited Hawaiian food along with local dishes. None have poi or rarities like opihi or kulolo.

I have a pop-up vendor I buy from when I need laulau. Others sell kalua pig, opihi fresh from the ocean, and haupia.

There’s another family that makes fresh kulolo. When they pitch their tent and put up their sign, they sell out in less than an hour. It takes a lot of time to grate fresh coconut to make kulolo. I always feel like I scored a win when I buy their kulolo!