By Stephanie Namahoe Launiu
Hālawa Beach Park Molokai (Shutterstock)
This article was originally published on April 6, 2025, and was updated Nov. 4, 2025.
With a population of just over 7,000 — more than 60% of whom are Native Hawaiian — Moloka‘i is a close-knit community. Many residents trace their lineage back to ancient times and carry with them a deep kuleana (responsibility) to protect the land, ocean and culture that sustains them.
Because of its smaller population and proximity, Moloka‘i is part of Maui County. But make no mistake — Moloka‘i has a heartbeat and identity all its own.
Moloka‘i’s deep-rooted sense of stewardship is sometimes mistaken for unfriendliness, but locals see it as a necessary act of protection. From turning away large cruise ships to opposing GMOs, to limiting tourism, the community consistently prioritizes what they believe is right — a reflection of their enduring commitment to aloha ‘āina.
Those who know and love Moloka‘i will say that these actions are implemented to protect very important family member: The island itself. As one local auntie once told me, “We don’t turn people away. We just ask them to come with respect.”
The government asks that people visit only if invited by ʻohana or for a specific community-based purpose. The only way to get there is via a small propeller plane from Honolulu or Maui. Within minutes of takeoff, the view from your window will leave you speechless. Lush, green hills roll into deep valleys. Patches of vivid red earth stand starkly against the landscape.
That red dirt? It’s not just eye-catching. It comes from oxidized volcanic minerals and has a reputation for leaving its mark — literally. If you’re planning to hike or explore off the beaten path, don’t wear your favorite shoes, or you’ll be taking home a rusty red souvenir.
Molokai Sunset (Shutterstock)
If you're invited to visit, take a deep breath. If you’re in a rush or looking for nightlife, you’re on the wrong island. But if you’re on Moloka‘i to connect with nature, culture, and quiet moments, you’re exactly where you need to be. This is the Friendly Isle — and it lives up to its name in its own, unhurried way.
Getting around takes a bit of planning. With only a couple of rental car agencies, limited taxi options, and no public transportation, reserving a car ahead of time is essential.
You won’t find a single traffic light here. The fastest posted speed limit is 45 miles per hour. And yes, it’s enforced. On this sparsely populated Hawaiian Island with little crime, the Moloka‘i police have plenty of time to clock the speed of rental cars.
The charming main town of Kaunakakai is a throwback to the days of a quieter and simpler Hawai’i with businesses like Friendly Market, Pascua General Store, and Kanemitsu Bakery, famous for its piping hot bread sold late at night. Baked fresh from the oven, just follow your nose after sundown and you’ll find it.
Moloka‘i’s history is deeply tied to its paniolo (cowboy) heritage. At one time, Moloka‘i Ranch wasn’t just the island’s largest employer — it controlled nearly a third of the island’s land. Today, the ranch sits quiet. Out of operation for years, it remains on the market, and its future remains uncertain. For many locals, it represents both a proud chapter of the island’s past and a pivotal question for the future.
Moloka‘i may feel like a world away, but getting there is surprisingly straightforward. Mokulele Airlines offers multiple flights a day from Honolulu International Airport (HNL) on Oahu or Kahului Airport (OGG) on Maui.
Hotel Molokai, in the main town of Kaunakakai, is the island’s only hotel. It provides comfortable rooms and suites and a pool, all set against the backdrop of the island’s natural beauty.
For those seeking a more personalized experience, vacation rentals are an option. Sites like VRBO and Airbnb offer everything from cozy cottages to spacious houses. Popular areas to stay in include Kaunakakai, Wavecrest, and the west side near Kepuhi Beach.
Halawa Valley and Hipuapua Falls (Shutterstock)
Halawa Valley, located on the eastern end of Molokaʻi, is steeped in history and natural splendor. The lush valley is home to the breathtaking Moaʻula and Hīpuapua Falls, accessible only via guided hikes that not only lead you through tropical flora but also delve into the valley’s rich cultural significance. Access is only allowable to the public by a local guide, be sure to make a reservation prior to making the long, windy road journey or you will be asked to turn around and leave. Engaging a local guide enhances your adventure by providing insights into the valley’s history, legends, and the traditional Hawaiian way of life.
On Molokaʻi’s west end lies Pāpōhaku Beach, one of Hawaiʻi’s largest white-sand beaches that stretches for over three miles. Despite its grandeur, it remains uncrowded, offering the perfect backdrop for solitude and reflection. The expansive shoreline is ideal for picnicking, beachcombing and catching a stunning sunset over the Pacific Ocean. Warning: no lifeguards are present and the nearest emergency response team is over 30 minutes away, swim with caution.
Kalaupapa National Historical Park serves as a poignant reminder of a chapter in Hawaiʻi’s history where individuals with Hansen’s disease (leprosy) were exiled to the remote peninsula. Today, the park stands as a testament to their resilience and the dedication of caregivers like Saint Damien and Saint Marianne Cope.
Access is restricted to protect the privacy of the few remaining residents, and permits are required. For those who do get the chance to go, the isolated peninsula is stunningly beautiful with brilliant blue water and sheer cliffs that prevent anyone from escaping.
Travel Tip: Access to Kalaupapa requires a permit. and tours are limited. Get more information on this government website.
Murphy’s Beach — also known as Kumimi Beach — is a gem on Moloka‘i’s east end, beloved for its crystal-clear, calm waters. It’s one of the island’s best snorkeling spots, with colorful coral gardens and vibrant marine life just a short swim from shore. Like most beaches on Moloka‘i, it’s wonderfully uncrowded. For the best conditions, visit early in the morning when the water is at its most serene.
Managed by The Nature Conservancy, the Kamakou Preserve encompasses over 2,700 acres of rainforest, and is home to numerous rare and endangered plant and bird species. One of the best ways to see it is on the Pēpēʻōpae Bog Trail, a boardwalk trail that traverses the unique ecosystem.
Kamakou Preserve is one of Moloka‘i’s most remote and untouched treasures — but getting there is not for the faint of heart. The road is rugged, there’s no cell service or facilities, and weather conditions can change in an instant. While the preserve is technically open to the public, access is challenging, and private tours aren’t available.
The Nature Conservancy occasionally offers guided hikes from March to October, depending on weather and staffing. If you’re considering a visit, reach out first by calling (808) 954-6581 or emailing hike_molokai@tnc.org to see what options are available.
Did you know you can mail a coconut without putting it in a box? The nut IS the box. At the Hoolehua Post Office, visitors can partake in the quirky tradition of sending a personalized coconut, known as “Post-A-Nut,” to friends or family anywhere in the world. This unique and free service (excluding postage fees which cost $12-$20 per coconut) allows you to decorate a coconut and mail it as a memorable and novel souvenir.
Fun Fact: The program sends more than 3,000 coconuts a year, including about 700 to foreign countries. Australia and New Zealand have strict regulations, so unfortunately you can’t send one down under.
Moloka‘i’s southern coast is home to a several ancient fishponds — sophisticated aquaculture systems that once sustained entire communities. Built with precision and deep ecological knowledge, these stone-walled enclosures are a powerful reminder of how early Hawaiians lived in harmony with the ocean.
Keawanui Fishpond is the largest fully enclosed and functioning fishpond in the Islands. Their mission goes beyond preservation — they’re working to restore food security in Hawai‘i by reviving traditional aquaculture practices. Guided tours may be available so if you’re looking for a unique cultural experience that also gives back to the land, this is it.
Molokaʻi hosts various cultural events throughout the year that celebrate Hawaiian traditions, music, and dance. The annual Ka Hula Piko festival, for instance, honors the birth of hula, which according to legend, originated on Molokaʻi. Take a look at their calendar to see what’s coming up.
Tucked away in Kalaʻe, the Moloka‘i Museum and Cultural Center offers a fascinating look at the island’s rich history — from its earliest Native Hawaiian settlers to the plantation era that shaped daily life for generations. The museum is housed in the beautifully restored R.W. Meyer Sugar Mill, where visitors can explore original machinery and artifacts that tell the story of Moloka‘i’s agricultural roots.
Moloka‘i’s food scene may be small, but it’s full of heart — and flavor. Rooted in the island’s agricultural history and multicultural community, local eateries serve everything from traditional Hawaiian favorites to freshly caught seafood and inventive snacks.
One unforgettable local treat? Hot bread from Kanemitsu Bakery in Kaunakakai. Tucked in a narrow back alley affectionately known as “Hot Bread Lane,” this late-night ritual draws both locals and curious visitors. The warm, fluffy loaves are split open and stuffed with fillings like cinnamon sugar, strawberry jam, and gooey cream cheese. It’s sweet, satisfying, and purely Moloka‘i.
Restaurant Recommendations located in the (only) town of Kaunakakai:
Paddler’s Restaurant and Bar – A casual restaurant with full bar, live music and dancing most nights.
A Taste of Moloka‘i – A popular food truck serving restaurant-quality poke bowls and salads.
Molokaʻi remains one of Hawaiʻi’s most authentic and least-commercialized islands, and the State of Hawaiʻi encourages visitors to approach it with respect, patience, and careful planning. Many of the island’s most treasured places—including Hālawa Valley, Kamakou Preserve, and the fishponds along the southern coast—are accessible only with local guides or by permit. Guided tours not only ensure visitor safety but also help protect fragile ecosystems and cultural sites. Because services and facilities are limited, plan ahead, travel responsibly, and remember that on Molokaʻi, experiencing the island’s mana begins with honoring the people and the place itself.
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