By Stephanie Namahoe Launiu
6 Apr, 2025
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Silhouette of surfers (Shutterstock)
This article was originally published on April 6, 2025, and was updated Jan. 28, 2026.
Surfing — known in Hawaiian as he‘e nalu — is more than a sport here; it’s a way of life. A spiritual dance with the ocean woven into the fabric of Hawaiian culture. As early explorers recorded in their ship journals, long before surfboards lined beach rental shops, ancient Hawaiians were carving the swells with effortless grace.
Why does surfing flourish here? The islands are blessed with some of the best waves in the Pacific. Whether you’re an experienced rider or a first-timer eager to catch the pros carve it up, this guide will point you to the can’t-miss locations for surfing statewide. Let’s dive in.
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View from Waikiki beach (Shutterstock).
It is widely accepted that surfing was invented by ancient Polynesians more than 1000 years ago, but the first written records of surfing came from the journals of European explorers after Captain James Cook came to Hawaiʻi in 1769.
When the first missionaries arrived in the early 1800s, they discouraged many aspects of Hawaiian culture, from hula to surfing, and the pastime was nearly lost. By the latter part of the century, however, surfing and hula were revived by King Kalākaua. In the early 1900s, Duke Kahanamoku and his friends, then known as Hui Nalu, or Club of Waves, popularized the sport in Waikīkī. By the 1950s, Kahanamoku had spread the gift of surfing worldwide and his crew became known as the Waikīkī Beach Boys.
Learn more about the history of surfing and Duke Kahanamoku here.
Surfing in Hawai‘i evolved tremendously from its ancient roots as a royal pastime to today’s high-tech, high-performance sport. In the early days, surfboards were handcrafted from native trees like koa or wiliwili. Boards used by ali‘i, or Hawaiian royalty, were up to 16 feet long and weighed over 150 pounds. Commoners used slightly smaller versions, but all were heavy, finless slabs of polished wood, built for strength and speed, but not ease.
Modern surfboards are lighter, shorter and designed for maneuverability. Today’s boards are made from high-tech materials like fiberglass, polyurethane foam and epoxy. The addition of fins in 1935 revolutionized board control, allowing surfers to carve and cut with greater precision.
Technology has also transformed how surfers find waves. Gone are the days of waiting by the shore or relying on word-of-mouth. Now, apps like Surfline provide real-time updates, webcam feeds, and three-day forecasts for dozens of spots across Hawai‘i. Whether you’re checking out Jaws on Maui or the North Shore of O‘ahu, Surfline should be your go-to resource.
In true island style, Hawai‘i was the first state in the nation to recognize surfing as an official high school sport. For generations of local teens, the dream of joining the surf team has been as real and thrilling as catching that perfect wave.
Geography affects surf conditions. East-facing shores, exposed to consistent trade winds, tend to have choppier and larger waves, especially during the summer. West-facing beaches are more influenced by seasonal swells and are often calmer, though still capable of producing world-class waves in winter. Local surf reports provide heights and safety conditions, helping surfers pick the right break for their skill level.
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Riding the waves (Shutterstock)
Oʻahu is the epicenter of surfing in Hawaiʻi with its world-famous surf breaks. The North Shore brings international big-wave surfers for annual surf competitions, while the South Shore attracts beginners to the gentle waves of Waikīkī.
Learn more about Oʻahu surf spots here.
And where to rent boards and get lessons here.
Off-shore winds and ground swells bless Kaua’i with good surfing all year round. During the summer months of May to October, the south shore gets the biggest swells. In the Poipū area, surf spots abound, many within walking distance of each other. Starting at the Marriott Waiohai Beach Club, the waves at Waiohai Reef break both ways but the left is usually the longer and better ride. In front of the Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort at Shipwrecks Beach, you can feel swells coming from deep water where you catch waves breaking right.
Continuing down the shore, First Break is about 500 yards off the Sheraton Kauai Resort. But 500 yards offshore means a super-long paddle that typically only experts are willing to make. In front of the Beach House Restaurant and Prince Kuhio Condos are PK’s/Centers, a great spot for all levels. Continuing on, you’ll hit Acid Drops and Nukes. Your imagination can do the work there.
When the winter rolls around, the surf crowd shifts to Kauaʻi’s North Shore for legendary 30 to 40-foot swells from November to February. This includes the famed Hanalei Bay. During winter, the swells might be too much for beginners. But if you happen to be in Hanalei in the summer, it has just about the perfect conditions to learn.
Maui offers a diverse surf scene with spots for every level. For seasoned riders, Honolua Bay on the Northwest coast stands out, known for its clean, powerful right-handers. Nearby, Honokōhau Bay delivers both lefts and rights, but the right break is the highlight. On the remote North Shore, Peʻahi (Jaws) reigns as Maui’s big-wave epicenter, drawing elite surfers for its massive swells. Kahului Harbor is a local favorite on the North-Central coast with punchy rights and solid bodyboarding opportunities. In Lahaina, a trio of reef breaks — Kammies, Shark Pit, and Breakwall — offer a mix of challenges for experienced riders.
For beginners and intermediates, Maui’s South and West shores provide plenty of accessible waves. Breakwall in Lahaina is a go-to beginner break, offering consistent conditions and a sandy bottom. The Cove and Ukumehame in Kīhei are also perfect for learning, with small, gentle waves and plenty of space. Launiupoko, just south of Lahaina, has a soft left-hand break ideal for longboarding. Further north, S-Turns delivers clean, peeling waves suitable for all levels, while Wailea’s Stouffer’s Break is better for intermediate short boarders. Fleming Beach Park near Kapalua offers more power and is best suited to those with some experience.
The Big Island may be less known for surfing, but it still has a variety of quality breaks. On the West Coast in Kailua-Kona, Banyans stands out as the island’s most consistent A-frame reef break. It works year-round, handling south swells in summer and northwest swells in winter. It’s accessible to all levels depending on the conditions, though caution is needed over the shallow reef. On the east side near Hilo, Honoli‘i is a reliable river mouth break that gets solid winter swell and wind-driven summer surf. Primarily a right, it offers lefts, too, and is more beginner-friendly during the summer months.
Along the Kona coast, Kahaluʻu Bay is a favorite for beginners. With three distinct peaks, the inside waves are gentle, while the outer waves suit intermediate surfers. Pine Trees, also near Kona, may not have the island’s best wave quality but makes up for it with consistency. It’s especially dependable during winter and welcomes surfers of various levels. Lastly, Lyman’s is a Kona gem for intermediate to advanced surfers, known for its clean lefts and unique bonus: whale-watching from the lineup. The limited access and minimal beach space make it a local favorite and not recommended for beginners.
Find our bank of live surf cams here.

North Shore Oʻahu (Shutterstock).
While surfing has long been a men’s sport, women are steadily making waves. From overcoming incredible odds to setting global milestones, female surfers are proving that the future of surfing is proudly inclusive. Bethany Hamilton, who lost her arm in a shark attack at age 13 on Kaua‘i, returned to the water just a month later. She went on to become a pro surfer, author and mother. Meanwhile, Carissa Moore, a Native Hawaiian, made history by winning the first Olympic gold medal in surfing at the 2021 Tokyo Games, inspiring a new generation of female surfers around the world.
For competition surfing read: Where to Watch Big-Wave Surfing on Oʻahu’s North Shore
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