North Kohala, Hawaiʻi Island

Kohala Mountain Road, Route 250 — Heading north up the winding Kohala Mountain Road, State Route 250, from Waimea to the towns of Hāwī and Kapaʻau, you'll find rolling green fields reminiscent of Ireland on one side and expansive views of the Pacific on the other. The road travels from Waimea's 2,700-foot elevation, rising to over 3,500 feet at the summit, then back down to Hāwī at 522 feet above sea level. Tree tunnels, tall ironwoods, livestock and wildlife including horses, cows, turkeys and pheasants will keep you visually entertained on the drive.

Another, less-winding route to the island's north end from Kawaihae is the Akoni Pule Highway, or Highway 270, which splits from Highway 19 near the Kawaihae Harbor and travels north past some of Hawaiʻi's most historic sites.

ʻŌhaiʻula Beach, also known as Spencer Beach Park — This expansive beach park located right next to the Puʻukoholā Heiau features a protective reef just offshore ideal for snorkeling. Watch out for wana, or spiny sea urchins. They are plentiful here and will cut your feet — bring water shoes for extra protection. You can also camp or fish here. This is a great family beach park with tennis courts, ample parking, BBQ pits, picnic tables, restrooms and pavilions.

Puʻukoholā Heiau National Historic Site — In this region, major moments in Hawaiian history happened. Māhukona, now submerged off the northwest coast, was the first volcano to begin forming Hawaiʻi Island. King Kamehameha the Great was born and raised here. Hawaiʻi's largest and among the last-built heiau (temple), Puʻukoholā Heiau National Historic Site, was constructed in 1790 under Kamehameha to honor the Hawaiian war god Kū. Two decades after its completion and consecration by human sacrifice, Kamehameha became king and uniter of the Hawaiian Islands.

Lapakahi State Historical Park — This partially restored, 600-year-old fishing village occupies 262 acres along the Kohala Coast. From the visitor center by the parking lot, you can walk a 1-mile loop trail to see restored hale (houses), stone walls, tools, games and Hālau Waʻa — a thatched-roof structure that held canoes — to get a sense of how Native Hawaiians lived for centuries, pre-contact. There are interpretive displays throughout the walk to tell you what you are seeing. A downloadable brochure explains the marine life and plants there as well. The park has remained much the same since its origin as park staff and archaeologists have preserved and restored many of the sites. There is little shade, so it's best to visit the park in the morning or late afternoon to avoid the heat. Bring your own drinking water, as there is none available in the park. Open daily, 8 a.m. to 4 p.m., closed on state holidays. Free admission.

Note: If you go during whale watching season (December through April), visit the Lapakahi Marine Life Conservation District just offshore from the park to see if you can spot a humpback.

Kohala Historical Sites State Monument and Moʻokini Heiau — One of the oldest, largest and most historically significant heiau, or temple, in Hawaiʻi, Moʻokini sits at the island's northernmost tip near Upolu Point, preserved as part of the Kohala Historical Sites State Monument. The heiau is said to date back to around A.D. 480-500, built by the high priest Kuamoʻo Moʻokini. The birthplace of King Kamehameha I is located just a few hundred yards away along with the stones used by Kamehameha's mother to assist with his birth, which actually took place in a canoe. The future king's birthrights were conducted at the heiau before he was swept off to the sacred valleys, including Pololū, where he was raised. Treat this sacred heiau with the utmost respect — do not touch anything, and do not walk inside the heiau. There's no staff on-site to explain what this heiau represents, so it helps to read up before you go. To get there, take the turnoff to Upolu Airport, then turn left at the airfield. Be aware that the road is in poor condition. I recommend using four-wheel drive to traverse the rutted dirt road or, better yet, park at the airfield and walk to the heiau. Open daily except Wednesdays, 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. Free admission. No restrooms.

Hāwī — Once the center of North Kohala's sugar industry, Hāwī is now the turnaround for Ironman cyclists annually and a quaint destination filled with artists, makers, boutiques and galleries. Bamboo Restaurant and Gallery has been acclaimed by Zagat and Fodor's for its food served in a former plantation building. On one side is the restaurant, the other a gallery and shop that's ideal for finding mementos and locally produced paintings or other crafts. Other notable stops include Hawi Coffee Co., Kohala Coffee Mill, As Hawi Turns Boutique, Sunshine Trading Co., Kohala Grown Market and, if it's a Saturday, the Hawi Farmers Market at Kohala Village Hub, 8 a.m. to noon. You can walk the length of town easily, then venture to your next stop just down the road.

Kapaʻau — Three minutes east of Hāwī is the original statue of King Kamehameha I, which was commissioned in Florence, Italy, in 1880, then lost at sea during its voyage to Hawaiʻi. According to "Reflections in Stone and Bronze: Exploring Hawaiʻi's History and Culture Through Sculpture" by Cheryl D. Soon, Ph.D., a replacement was commissioned and erected in Honolulu, becoming one of the city's most patronized sites, but the original was mystifyingly found in 1912, and now stands near Kamehameha's birthplace in Kapaʻau as one of four Kamehameha statues, alongside those in Hilo, Honolulu and Washington. Though a fifth, more contemporary casting also stands on Maui. Every year on Kamehameha Day, June 11, the statue is draped in flower lei. Like Hawi, Kapaʻau has a cute town with places to shop and eat on the main street. Visit Motek Bakery or Gill's Lanai. Across from the statue is a small strip of shops and eateries, including Ackerman Galleries, a great stop for jewelry, art, clothing and souvenirs.

Kēōkea Beach Park — 1.5 miles from the Pololū Valley lookout. There is no beach here, but there are picnic tables, lava rocks, facilities and views of the often-turbulent ocean that surfers love.

Halaʻula — This small community was once home to the Kohala Sugar Co., founded in 1863 by the Rev. Elias Bond and shuttered in 1973. Stop here to visit the Bond Historic District, which includes the Bond family homestead, built in the 1840s, and Kalahikiola Church — both relics of the plantation era.

Pololū Valley Lookout — A winding 15-minute drive further east along the Akoni Pule Highway, or Highway 270, from Kapaʻau brings you to the finale of North Kohala, a cliffside ocean view over a deep, green valley and black-sand beach down below. Native ʻōhiʻa and hala trees along with glossy green naupaka bushes hug the cliffs here, among myriad other flora. The lookout has a small parking area with roughly a dozen spots, which routinely overflows given the volume of daily visitors — on-site stewards direct the overflow to roadside parking, but conditions still get congested. There are no restrooms at the lookout itself; the nearest are at Kēōkea Beach Park. Increased visitor traffic here has taken a real toll on the surrounding cultural and environmental sites, so tread carefully and make sure to pack out anything you bring in.

Waimea — Leaving the North Kohala area, you might want to take the Kohala Mountain Road along Route 250 to Waimea. This is a picturesque drive through cattle ranches and rolling green countryside. On a clear day, you can see three of the Big Island's five mountains: Mauna Kea, Mauna Loa and Hualālai. There are farmers markets, cafes, shops and restaurants all over town and two hotels — Kamuela Inn and Castle Waimea Country Lodge — should you want to stay the night. I recommend Merriman's or The Fish and the Hog for dinner.

A half-day covers Hāwī, Kapaʻau and the Pololū Valley Lookout. A whole day enables you to add Lapakahi State Historical Park and Moʻokini Heiau, which are the most culturally significant parts of the area. If you make it a multi-day getaway, I recommend staying in Waimea or in Hāwī at Kohala Village Inn.

Half-day itinerary

• 9 a.m.: Depart the Kohala Coast and drive north on Highway 270 toward Hawi (about 45 minutes).
• 9:45 a.m.: Browse Hawi's galleries and grab coffee.
• 10:45 a.m.: Continue to Kapaʻau to see the original Kamehameha statue and its shops.
• 11:30 a.m.: Drive 15 minutes to the Pololū Valley Lookout.
• 11:45 a.m.: Take in the view.
• 1 p.m.: Head back toward the coast, or on to Waimea for lunch.

Full-day itinerary

• 7:30 a.m.: Depart early and drive to the Upolu Airport Road turnoff.
• 8 a.m.: Hike out to Moʻokini Heiau (about an hour round trip).
• 9:15 a.m.: Drive to Lapakahi State Historical Park.
• 9:45 a.m.: Walk the self-guided loop (about an hour).
• 11:15 a.m.: Continue to Hawi for lunch and shopping.
• 1 p.m.: Drive to Kapaʻau for the statue and more shops.
• 2 p.m.: Drive to the Pololū Valley Lookout.
• 2:30 p.m.: Take in the view, or hike down to the black-sand beach if you have energy left.
• 4 p.m.: Drive home through Waimea for an early dinner.

For driving around and seeing the sites, I'd rent a car and go on your own. Everything on this list is easy to reach. That said, guided tours based in Hāwī offer experiences you can't easily do solo, like ziplining and taking a waterfall swim, so it's worth booking one if that kind of adventure appeals to you.

No. Everything on this list is free with no advance booking required. The one exception is if you book a guided activity in Hāwī, like ziplining or a waterfall tour, which typically requires a reservation.

Yes, but there isn't a lot up here specifically for kids to do. If your children are happy sightseeing and exploring historic sites, they'll do fine. I'd pack snacks and water, since there will be stretches of time on the road without nearby stores and restaurants. Older kids tend to enjoy Lapakahi, where they can try traditional Hawaiian games like spear throwing and disc rolling along the self-guided trail.

• Underestimating the drive time from Kailua-Kona or Hilo and not leaving enough of the day for North Kohala itself.
• Not packing food and water — there are restaurants in Hāwī and Kapaʻau, but otherwise they are sparse.
• Attempting the dirt road to Moʻokini Heiau without a 4WD vehicle, especially after rain.
• Arriving at the Pololū Valley Lookout too late in the afternoon and finding no parking.
• Trying to squeeze North Kohala into the same day as other major Big Island stops.
• Assuming the heiau and historical sites have staff on hand to explain their significance — most don't, so it helps to read up beforehand.

• Getting there: Highway 270 (Akoni Pule Highway) runs north from Kawaihae through Hāwī and Kapaʻau to Pololū Valley.
• Distance: From Spencer Beach Park to the Pololū Valley lookout on HI-270, or the Akoni Pule Highway, is 27 miles and an approximately 42-minute drive. From Waimea to Hāwī up Kohala Mountain Road is about 22 miles and a 36-minute drive. Depending on which route you take, touring North Kohala can be an all-day adventure, but can also be done in about two hours up and back without stopping anywhere for long.
  • Drive from: Ellison Onizuka Kona International Airport to Pololū Valley: ~54 miles and an hour and 15-minute drive.
  • Drive from: Waikoloa to Pololū Valley: 37 miles and about an hour drive.
  • Drive from: Hilo to Pololū Valley: ~83 miles and just over two hours driving.
• Hours: Lapakahi is open daily, 8 a.m. to 4 p.m.; the Kohala Historical Sites State Monument (Moʻokini Heiau) is open daily except Wednesdays, 9 a.m. to 8 p.m.; the Pololū Valley Lookout has no set hours or gate.
• Parking: Lapakahi and the Upolu Airport lot near Moʻokini Heiau are both free. Parking can be found with ease at all places on this list, with the exception of Pololū Valley, which has extremely limited parking that's attended by docents.
• Accessibility: Lapakahi's trail is packed dirt and lava rock, which makes wheelchair or stroller access difficult. The Pololū Valley Lookout itself is reachable by car, but the trail down to the beach is steep and not accessible. Moʻokini Heiau requires either a rough 4WD drive or roughly a 1.5-mile hike, neither of which is wheelchair accessible.