Maui is bigger than most people expect. You'll need a rental car and realistic expectations about how long it takes to get around the island — especially during high traffic times. The parts of the island most visitors traverse include West Maui, Upcountry, South Maui and the road to Hāna. Driving from Wailea on the south shore to Kaʻanapali on the west side takes about an hour. Upcountry is a world away from the beach entirely. Where you stay will likely dictate what you do, unless you will be here for a week or more. Think about what you want to see and do before booking your hotel. Families who want easy beach access should stay in South Maui or Kaʻanapali. If you are interested in a quiet, restful stay, meandering farms and small towns in cooler temperatures, consider Upcountry.
I recommend touring the road to Hāna for first-time visitors, but keep in mind it will demand an entire day. The 64-mile drive from Pāʻia to Hāna town with its more than 600 turns, 50-plus single-lane bridges and stops for waterfalls, lava rock coastlines, roadside banana bread and black sand beaches along the way are the whole point of the excursion. Most people dramatically underestimate how long it takes. Plan to leave by 6 a.m. and return in time for a late dinner. A guided tour is worth every penny — it handles reservations, parking and logistics so you can simply enjoy the ride and incredible landscape.
Lāhainā holds a special place in the story of Hawaiʻi. Most of the former capital of the Hawaiian Kingdom and a thriving hub of West Maui's culture and commerce was devastated in the August 2023 wildfires. It was one of the deadliest natural disasters in American history, and the community is still rebuilding. Visitors are welcome and your economic support for local business is genuinely needed. Go with an open heart and spend generously.