Kona (West)
The driest, sunniest side. The historic Aliʻi Drive waterfront is a strip of restaurants, dive bars and shops geared to visitors, and above town the Kona coffee belt runs through Holualoa, Kealakekua and Captain Cook — more than 70 farms, several offering tours and tastings. The coast holds Puʻuhonua o Hōnaunau (the Place of Refuge), the Captain Cook Monument and preserved heiau; Two-Step and Kahaluʻu are premier day snorkels, and by night you can snorkel with manta rays off Keauhou. Best for first-time visitors who want culture and sightseeing.
Kohala (North)
Home to the island's luxury resorts — Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, Mauna Lani, Fairmont Orchid — and its best swimming beaches along a long, sheltered shoreline. Hāpuna Beach has soft white sand and calm water, ideal for families and less-confident swimmers. Thirty minutes uphill, Waimea is cool, green paniolo ranch country with farmers markets and small-town intimacy, and the Kohala Mountain Road between them is one of the island's most quietly spectacular drives.
Hilo & Hāmākua (East)
The island's largest, least touristy town. Over 130 inches of rain a year make this the wet side — and give it lush rainforest and towering waterfalls like ʻAkaka and Rainbow Falls. The daily Hilo Farmers Market brims with tropical fruit, the Hāmākua Coast to the north is a scenic drive past historic towns and world-class chocolate, and Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park is under an hour away. Hilo is for visitors who would rather be out on excursions than in a resort, and who are charmed by old storefronts, family-run restaurants and nature.
Volcanoes & Kaʻū (South)
Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park sits 30 miles southwest of Hilo and 96 southeast of Kona, open year-round, 24 hours, $30 per vehicle for seven days. This is where Kīlauea has erupted on and off for decades, where you drive the 22-mile Chain of Craters Road from summit to sea and watch sunset over Halemaʻumaʻu. The surrounding Kaʻū district adds Punaluʻu black sand beach (with frequent sea turtles) and Kaʻū coffee farms whose beans often rival Kona's.