Two Step Beach (Hōnaunau Bay)

Most visitors park at Puʻuhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park and walk down Hōnaunau Beach Road to Two Step, which takes just a few minutes. Two Step is a busy place, so you'll see snorkelers clustering around the entrance.

Getting into the ocean via the two steps takes a little nuance, and since it's the only way in and out of the water, it can get congested as people try to exit and enter at the same time. Wait your turn, and be considerate of those trying to exit before you enter. Don't wait to put on your gear until you're sitting on the top step. Have your mask on and fins in hand. Once you're in the water, put your fins on. Then wait for the tide to come in and float out with it. Do this in reverse to exit the water, floating in and back onto the steps with the tide.

Once you're in the water, you'll be surrounded by schools of fish in all shapes and sizes. Clouds of yellow tang accompany snorkelers alongside polka-dotted boxfish, butterflyfish, peacock grouper and Hawaiʻi's state fish, the humuhumunukunukuāpuaʻa — a reef triggerfish, among others. Fish swim through canyons of coral reef in every imaginable configuration. The reef forms a complex underwater landscape that surrounds snorkelers on three sides, with the seafloor sloping progressively deeper toward the open water beyond the bay.

Eels and an occasional octopus peek out from the reef, blending into the background. Honu, or sea turtles, paddle casually around. Above the water are views of the bay, swaying palms and the carved wooden statues andheiau, or temple, of Puʻuhonua o Hōnaunau. You can often spot spinner dolphins above and below the water line, and whales during the winter months.

Kahaluʻu Beach Park — Good for kids and first-time snorkelers, lifeguards on duty, easier entry, gentle reef.

Kealakekua Bay — Probably the best snorkel on the island, but only accessible by boat, kayak or a strenuous 4-mile round-trip hike to the Captain Cook Monument.

Beach 69 and Kīholo Bay — Sandy beach with easy water entry. Less coral, but more relaxed for a full beach day. Free parking.

Food: Grab snacks and drinks 15 minutes north of Two Step in Captain Cook. Some of my favorites are Shaka Tacoz and the Menehune Coffee Company.

Accommodations: Most visitors who come to Two Step will stay along the Kona Coast. Outrigger Kona Resort & Spa is the closest resort. Closer by are mostly Airbnbs and a couple of smaller boutique lodging properties around Captain Cook, such as the Dragonfly Ranch or the Kane Plantation Guest House.

Sea urchins and reef: Be wary of the wana, or spiky sea urchins, that reside on the reef and rock. Don't step on or brush up against these pointy creatures, whose spikes are painful and venomous. Do not touch or step on the coral — it's extremely delicate and provides habitat for marine life. Introducing human bacteria disrupts the natural ecosystem.

Wildlife distance: Honu and monk seals are federally protected. Do not touch or approach either. Stay at least 10 feet from honu and 150 feet from monk seals.

Sharp lava-rock entry: Wear reef shoes for the walk and fins in the water. Don't push off with your hands on live coral.

Current: A strong current can develop along the north wall. If you start to feel it pull you, swim parallel to shore back toward the Two Step entry, not against it.

Areas to avoid: Do not snorkel toward the boat ramp or toward Puʻuhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park — this is a sacred historical site where swimming is not permissible.